Basic knowledge for hat making

Terms and phrases for hats

Parts name used in patterns

Crown

head part
・Tall crown: crown height is tall
opposite: Low crown

Top crown

top part of the crown

Side crown

side part of the crown

Brim

Wide brim: brim width long
(also called 'broad brim')
opposite: narrow or short brim
・Down-turn brim: lowered brim
opposite: narrow or short brim
・Turn-up brim: brim edge pointing upwards

Size (Seam）

Line where crown and brim are sewn together
which determines the hat size.

How to select fabrics

Fabrics for spring ~ summer

cotton / light denim / cotton linen
We do not recommend 100% linen material as it can easily get wrinkles.

Fabrics for autumn~winter hats

fabric thickness light ~ medium light
corduroy / tweed
boucle　boiled wool

Cutting

★Bias cutting
To cut the fabric 45 degree diagonal to the grain.
The elasticated fabric allows a neat curve.

★Grain line cutting
Fabric will not stretch so it will maintain shape.

★You can finish neatly by bias cutting because hats are composed of curved fabric pieces.
However, some fabric designs, such as polka dots & check, are more suitable for grain line cutting.

Fusible interface

Fusible interface is applied to hold shape of the brim and/or strengthen light fabrics.

Type of interface

We use single side fusible interface.
(use iron to apply)

Three types of fabric are available; Non-woven fabric, woven fabric and knitted fabric

・Non-woven fabric
Non-woven, fibers entwined. Various types of thickness available, not suitable for machine washing.
・Woven fabric
Blend nice & soft to the fabric, no wrinkles when machine washed.
・Knitted fabric
Flexible material fit for fabrics that stretch, such as knit.

Simprin recommends fusible interfacing only on the brim
to keep the lightness of the hat.
Light hats are comfortable for long hours of wearing.

However, fusible interface can be applied on crown
when you want a firm shape or when the fabric is too light or soft.

When applying interface on crown, we recommend using a soft fabric.

Measuring hat size

We show you how to measure your hat size in the following video.

How to measure your hat size (part 1)

1. Measure your head circumference, area where you wear your hat.

   Loosely wrap the measuring tape around your head.
   Do not tighten the tape when measuring.

   Forehead (spacing two fingers above your eyebrows)
   ↓
   Ears (spacing one finger above your ear)
   ↓
   Back of the head (slightly lower than mid area)

2. Adding 1~1.5cm to head circumference is your hat size.
   (head circumference + 1~1.5cm)

How to measure your hat size (part 2)

1. Make a ring with a sweatband (60~65cm) to measure your head circumference.
   Wrap the ring around your head, area where you wear your hat.
2. Adjust to your comfortable size, loose enough to allow space for one finger. Remove and measure the tape length.

Simprin hat patterns

• Size S: 56cm
  You can make hat size of 55~57cm
• Size M: 58cm
  You can make hat size of 57~59cm
• SIze L: 60cm
  You can make hat size of 59~61cm